Behind the Counter: The Milkman's Story

From a horse-drawn milk delivery in Huntly, Aberdeenshire, to one of the most sought out, Instagrammed coffee shop destinations in Edinburgh, The Milkman’s story is rooted in history, big dreams, hard graft, and a refreshingly humble attitude. The Milkman’s logo, a silhouette which was a souvenir from the Glasgow Empire Exhibition in 1938, depicts a man wearing a peaked cap, with a pipe in his mouth.

This is the milkman himself, the owner and founder’s great grandfather, who delivered milk to the town of Huntly and the surrounding areas—the last milkman to do so via a horse drawn cart. This is where The Milkman’s story starts, long before no.7 Cockburn Street opened its doors in 2015. In less than a decade, Mark Donald has developed a brand with a keen following, drawing people from all over the world to grab a coveted window-seat and enjoy a cup of coffee.

Coming back to Edinburgh, Mark and his partner Katie began to talk about the idea of a coffee shop, neither imagining that the perfect space would present itself on the same street where Katie already ran a shop, called Miss Katie Cupcake (which is now no.52 The Milkman, which he opened in 2020). “I think it was meant to be: I’d gone to pick Katie up from work, and as we were walking down Cockburn Street, we saw the For Let sign outside the Toddle Inn (as it was called then), and we both said, ‘how cool would it be to have the shop on the same street?’ We called the number on the sign, and everything just snowballed from there: it all happened within weeks.”

While the turn of events seemed serendipitous, Mark recalls it being an anxious and stressful time. “I was starting from scratch,” he told us. “I was trying to come up with a vision and design a space while doing a lot of research; learning about coffee; figuring out what coffee equipment would be needed, researching different coffee roasters: there was so much going on in my head. Katie’s always said, ‘whatever you do always turns out good’, so I knew that if I just committed to it and believed in myself, I would make a good job of it—but I knew it wouldn’t happen quickly and I was anxious: I had a lot to learn about the industry.”

Nine years later, and two further Milkman locations (no.52 on Cockburn Street, as well as a site in Peebles, a town in the Scottish Borders), not to mention being voted one of the best places for coffee in the UK, Mark’s maintained that humble attitude and openness to learning, as well as an appreciation for those early days. “I think it’s important to continually look to get that little bit better. There are some people who think that you open a shop, that’s it, you’re done. But there’s always something new to learn. Mistakes are part of the process but if you’re recognising the mistake, you can always improve. We were so fortunate to get really nice staff in those early days—those people gave The Milkman the welcoming, non-intimidating atmosphere that I wanted, which gained us recognition in the community.”

Mark’s desire for an inclusive space might have been heightened by his own insecurities about his place on the Edinburgh speciality coffee scene. “I had such imposter syndrome—I really didn’t feel like I belonged! I was only just beginning to dip my toes into speciality coffee, and I was very aware I didn’t have the right to make any big claims about being the best. I simply wanted to learn, and I knew it would take time.”

With the success of two sites in the heart of the Old Town, Mark was ready to take a risk, setting his sights on a town in the Scottish Borders for his third location. “The Scottish Borders is a bit of a coffee desert, but I was ready for a risk, and it was quite exciting to introduce something that wasn’t readily available. I’ve always loved the community spirit in Peebles: there’s big, genuine support, with a high street full of independent businesses.”

Alongside recognising that there weren’t many places for great coffee in the area, Mark noted the lack of vegan options, such as pastries, and wanted to be able to introduce something that wasn’t readily available; over the years, he’s observed the increasing consumer awareness in not just quality, but products that line up with personal values, such as health and the environment.  

“It’s one of the many reasons I chose Origin,” Mark said. “I’d always admired the way the business was aligned with sustainability practices and goals—and I think people are increasingly conscious of the types of businesses they want to support; in the same way they’re more aware of their health, they are more conscious of the decisions that they take in supporting the environment and better business practices.”

With three locations within just nine years, it’s natural to wonder what’s next for Mark, and we ask if he’d consider bringing The Milkman’s story back to where it all began. “I’d be lying if I said it hadn’t crossed my mind: I think it would tie in so perfectly—The Milkman, in the town where the man himself had walked and worked!” Despite his enthusiasm, Mark believes that there are few places quite like Edinburgh where the speciality coffee scene works so well. “Places like Brew Lab, Cairngorm, Lowdown – those initial folk who set the standard in Edinburgh – made people see the potential in what could be done as a collective. People here are keen and excited to keep raising the bar, and not in a competitive, self-serving way, either—there’s a proper community, with everyone working together and sharing ideas, and I would say that’s rare and special.”

For now Mark feels that three locations is the right balance, but after less than a decade on the scene, we’d argue he’s just getting started. “I’m very content right now: I have a young family, and plenty to keep me busy, but I’d never rule anything out,” he said. “Coffee or otherwise.”

We’re proud to supply coffee to The Milkman, and we’re delighted to be in such great company as we open doors in the Scottish capital in spring 2024. Find us at 6-8 South College Street and follow us for news and events here.