Producer Profile: Sao Joao, Mariano & Das Almas

Navigating Brazil’s landscape is unique to many of the other coffee producing countries we work with, with many obstacles and challenges. The sheer geographic scale of Brazil, its language barriers, and the level of coffee production that takes place across the country means that, to source exceptional coffee, we need a little help. Despite the hurdles, the partnerships we’ve formed over the years have been key components to some of our most loved coffees. From classic espresso blends to limited release features, the relationships we form are built in different ways, however, we maintain consistency in our commitment to nurture and support producers as well as source and champion quality coffee.

Here we celebrate three of our longest standing relationships with producers, as well as shining a light on our partnership with SMC.

Brazil’s landscape is unlike any other. Vast and mountainous, the country is the world’s largest producer of coffee, with over two million hectares dedicated to the industry. Guaxupé, a municipality in the southwest of Minas Gerais, is home to Cooxupé, the world's largest coffee cooperative. Its vast storage facility includes silos capable of holding up to three million kilograms of green coffee each. With the speed of production required to meet demand, a system that could recognise and manage coffee with speciality potential was needed.

With this in mind, Cooxupé created a sister company, SMC — our main supplier in Brazil — who evaluate coffee on the spot. The dedication from the farmers, who have a firm mindset of speciality over commodity, means that the scope for outstanding quality is huge.

SMC takes us right to the source of those producers and coffee. Despite numerous challenges — from the effects of the Russia-Ukraine war raising fertiliser prices — through to the impacts of climate change, there’s a real sense of pride and positivity across the country. Farmers strongly champion family traditions and embrace the latest experimental techniques. Many farms also hold numerous certifications: all are self-sufficient and determined. When it comes to working with those who focus on quality, transparency, and the future of sustainably sourced coffee, SMC makes these relationships — and friendships — possible.

SMC 

Our partnership with SMC is an important one. They work as our translators and aid negotiators, helping us maintain relationships with producers and exporters. The company values its people, and integrity and respect inform every decision they make, such as intentionally developing partnerships that celebrate sustainability and quality. SMC connects us with producers who are well-established, recognised for good quality control, and who uphold regulations, certifications and compliance. What’s more, they provide support, knowledge and training for farmers, and make our pursuit for coffee excellence possible.

OPENING DOORS

"SMC have been instrumental in opening doors and empowering producers and supporting women; they’re more than a bridge–they’re the foundations and backbone of our relationships. They’ve often supported and aided us with an impressive level of efficiency and professionalism, connecting us to incredible coffee and producers, each bringing a unique quality to the table, with passionate, dedicated, and explorative attitudes that benefit the future of speciality coffee."

"Brazil is full of incredible people. Many farms are well-established, with a positive and progressive mindset that enables them to go further, safekeeping their workers and the future of coffee. There are those that cook meals for their workers, treating them as family. Those who look to explore. Those who make quality the central focus of everything they do. SMC has made these relationships possible, uniting us all with a shared vision for the future of speciality coffee in Brazil."

Freda Yuan, Director of Coffee

Region: Serra de Sao Domingos, south of Minas Gerais

Altitude: 980 masl 

Size of Land: 180 hectares 

Varietals Grown: Catuai; Mundo Novo; Bourbon; Tupi

Harvest Season: May - September

At Fazenda Mariano, the Junquiera’s treat us like family. Much like they do with their workers, generously providing them with free housing on-site or on the outskirts of the farm.

The family value relationships. Not only does Ricardo — a third-generation member of the family — pay the highest wages in the area but he also adds a percentage from harvest sales. Such investment ties into the mindset of the family, who know that protecting the future of their workers is fundamental to the quality of coffee they produce. One employee has worked with them for 45 years (the farm has been operational for nearly 80 years), a testament to the investments made, value shown and relationships built over time. Knowledge, skill, and dedication are crucial: the harvest machinery on the farm is complex: a giant de-pulper/sorter equipped with 21 motors; a drying silo with perforated pipe providing hot air; and a complicated set of conveyor belts and lifts to aid transportation. It’s hard work, and the family ensure they take care of their workers as they would their own family.

Self-sufficiency and sustainability are deeply rooted at Mariano. Impressively, the farm received Rainforest Alliance certification (then classed as UTZ), for meeting and upholding the strict set of rules and requirements expected for farm organisation and data recording. Electric energy — for both the farm, and the workers’ homes — is provided by solar panels. Drying drums are powered by wood which is collected from preservation areas on the land (which make up twenty percent of the farm), and rainwater is collected in holes dug up between the coffee trees, acting as irrigation. The coffee grown on the farm is the product of working in harmony with the landscape and the dedication of the people responsible for production.

Region: South of Minas Gerais

Altitude: 1,150 - 1,230 masl

Size of Land: 153 hectares (dedicated to coffee) 

Varietals Grown: Red Bourbon; Yellow Bourbon; Yellow Catuai; Red Catuai, Acaia; Mundo Novo 

Harvest Season: May - September

Sao Joao is another family-focused farm. The doors are always open, and the house is always full. Barns are filled with machinery and equipment, and skills and knowledge are passed down through generations. With the soon-to-be fifth generation family member, Igor (who’s currently studying agriculture) looking to continue the legacy, carrying a real sense of pride and heritage, as well as progression and growth.

The Balachio family arrived from Italy at the end of the 19th century. At the time, there were no other producers in the area. By 1925, the family were pioneers of coffee in the region, with machinery to process the coffee, and transportation by train making export possible. Today, the farm focuses on higher speciality production, with nine full-time employees, and 15 extra workers during harvest. From traditional processing methods to modern machinery, every stage is designed to work in harmony with the environment while supporting the production of high-quality coffee. Water-efficient separation equipment helps reduce resource use, while drying drums are fuelled by eucalyptus wood. In Brazil, eucalyptus trees are commonly planted along farm borders to protect coffee plants from wind, while also providing a renewable source of firewood.

While the family have been able to work with the natural landscape to the benefit of the coffee they produce, there have been times where nature has thrown some challenges their way. Much of Brazil was hit by a severe frost in 2021, followed by a harsh drought; many trees had to be cut down as low as 20cm above the ground, with others completely replaced with new seedlings. While some coffee trees didn’t show any visible damage, placed the plants under significant stress, reducing or preventing fruit production altogether. According to Igor, the only way to truly assess the damage was to check every tree, one by one. It’s laborious work, and while many would find it demoralising, the family remain optimistic, believing that nature will always find its balance, and that patience is all that's needed–something Oswaldo Senior, Igor’s grandfather, wholly believes.

Each generation of the family, old and young, speaks about Sao Joao with pride and positivity. Their shared knowledge and experience are underpinned by their love of farming, with that dedication reflected in the exceptional coffees they produce.

Region: South of Minas Gerais 

Altitude: 1,200 masl 

Size of Land: 109 hectares (dedicated to coffee

Varietals Grown: Mundo Novo; Catucai; Rubi; Icatu; Bourbon 

Harvest Season: May - August

We’ve worked closely with the Muniz family for over eleven years now; their commitment to sustainable practices, alongside their open-minded attitude experimentation means that theirs is a friendship we hope to cherish for many years to come.

The family began growing coffee in 1942. Today, second and third generation family members — Jose, and Matheus — maintain the farm. Until 1965, the farm operated without electricity, with post-harvest processing conducted through stream power. Since then, they've come a long way, producing consistent coffee throughout their evolution. They’re now Rainforest Alliance certified, with farm management guided through 14 sustainable programmes spanning environmental, social, and economic practices. Das Almas, meaning ‘the souls’ (stemming from religious tribes believing that the soul is closer to God on higher altitudes) has 21 water springs, 42 hectares in permanent preservation, and 20 percent in legal preservation.

Throughout the farm you’ll find a seamless blend of tradition and progress. The family have always been willing to embrace the new, alongside maintaining and respecting the old. The first shed built to store fermented coffee still stands next to their modern tanks — a perfect representation of how far they’ve come while honouring each step of their journey. Plots over 60 years old sit alongside new, experimental lots. Since 2001, the family has planted over 21,000 new trees. Most recently, they’ve completed a challenging replanting initiative, connecting all preservation zones into one, making it easier for wildlife to thrive, creating a sense of symbiosis between the animals and the land.

What’s more, the family are meticulous in their farming procedures and processes. Everything from time spent on the patio, to drying and resting, is carefully measured; the lot itself is never separated or blended, aiding in consistency. This high level of quality control, respect and thoughtful consideration, makes their approach to experimentation even more exciting. Their anaerobic lot, featured as Lichia, was proof of this: a coffee that showcased the creativity and innovation of the farmers, paired with the detailed-oriented approach that consistently results in exceptional cup quality.

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These producers often contribute to some of our house blends - shop here